After five years of living in London, I was ready for a change: I was yearning for the Mediterranean lifestyle but not quite ready to return to my native city of Barcelona, so Rome seemed like the most theatrical choice.
It was not until I relocated in 2018 that I started to work with oil paints and came up with my first work for exhibitions. This is where I got the inspiration for my Plats Bruts, a series of trompe-l’oeil still lifes of finished plates of food at restaurants in the city, some of which are included in my list of favourites below.
One of my current projects is the set design for the new staging of the ballet La Bayadère, which opens at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma on February 25. This is the second time I’ve worked with the Opera and with French choreographer Benjamin Pech, the first being Swan Lake at Circo Massimo in 2021. La Bayadère runs until March 2 (operaroma.it).
Where to eat and drink
For an aperitivo, you can find a diverse mix of locals of all ages at restaurant and cocktail bar Camponeschi on Thursdays, congregating in Piazza Farnese, one of the most picturesque squares. Caffè Perù, the younger, more relaxed alternative to Camponeschi, is only a few streets away. For lunch, I recommend Rocco Ristorante, a contemporary take on a classic osteria with a modest but carefully crafted menu, which changes with the seasons and the availability of fresh local ingredients. Pasticceria Regoli is a local institution and its cakes are delicious.
My favourite restaurant is Ristorante La Matriciana dal 1870 on Via del Viminale close to Termini station and I’ve painted three pieces based on my recurring visits, including my 2022 work Paccheri e Gamberi. The spaghetti carbonara at Trattoria al Moro is widely considered to be the best in town and I’ve painted plates of this, too. When in Rome, you must also try puntarelle alla Romana, a simple dish of chicory that is almost impossible to find anywhere else.
What to see and do
Firstly, pay your respects to the Pantheon, as it is one of the pinnacles of human achievement. Some of the most beautiful examples of architecture and sculpture can be seen at the Borromini corridor at Palazzo Scala – a Baroque masterpiece – and Chiesa di San Carlino alle Quattro Fontane, another of Francesco Borromini’s designs. But there are so many: La Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di Loyola, in Campo Marzio near the Pantheon; Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s Ecstasy of Saint Teresa resting in the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria; and Blessed Ludovica Albertoni in the church of San Francesco a Ripa in Trastevere. Nearby, in the same neighbourhood, is the Tempietto chapel, built in the early 1500s to designs by Donato Bramante.
I would also recommend the Centrale Montemartini and the Hendrik Christian Andersen Museum. They are normally quite empty and they house fascinating collections. The juxtaposition of ancient Roman sculpture and modern machinery at Centrale Montemartini, a former power plant that is an extension of the Capitoline Museums, is definitely worth a visit. The Hendrik Christian Andersen Museum showcases hundreds of the artist’s sculptures and paintings centred round his utopian vision of a World City.
Off the tourist track
Among the most overlooked places to admire in Rome are: the tomb of Eurysaces the Baker, one of the best remaining examples of a freedman funerary monument; the Foro Italico sports complex (especially the swimming pool) built under Benito Mussolini; and the 17th-century Porta Magica. There is not a whole lot to do in the Quartiere Coppedè, but I find myself drawn here because of the almost surreal architecture by its namesake architect Gino Coppedè, who devised his own rendition of the Art Nouveau style. It is in the north of the city and certainly worth visiting to see the Piazza Mincio with its Fountain of the Frogs. The hill of Il Gianicolo is a great place to have a walk and take in views over the city. It is also worth spending some time exploring one of Rome’s most beautiful houses – Villa Farnesina and its gardens on the river. And when I feel I need to escape, I head to Villa Doria Pamphilj, the Via Appia Antica or the Park of the Aqueducts –it is like being in the country without really leaving the city.
Where to shop
The Porta Portese flea market in Trastevere is a must-visit on Sunday mornings. Libreria Mezzoni Antichità, near the Vatican on Via Ruggero Fiore, sells interesting books and artefacts, while Martin Alain Georges and Ferretti e Guerrini Antichita in the historic centre are two favourites for antique furniture and objects – the latter especially for lighting. Decorarte Flli Pinci sells beautiful copper ornaments and decorative hardware. Schostal is my go-to for pyjamas (though they have far more men’s clothing). You can buy a pair of Vatican socks from Gammarelli (it is the Pope’s official tailor). And be sure to look out for the infamous Calendario Romano – more commonly known as the ‘Hot Priest’ calendar.
Where to stay
The elegant 16th-century Villa Medici, despite its location next to the Spanish Steps, is a calm retreat with a handful of rooms available to stay in, decorated with exquisite original Renaissance frescoes. Rooms start at €250 a night. To book, email standard@villamedici.it.
Villa Medici also houses The French Academy in Rome, which puts on a series of interesting exhibitions throughout the year. For five-star comforts, Six Senses’ first Italian hotel – ideally located in ancient Rome, close to the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain – is scheduled to open this spring with rooms from £700 a night.
