Paint the picture
Wending your way up a perilously steep hill in the countryside near Weligama brings you (with some relief) to the stylish precincts of Malabar Hill, which seems to rise out the jungle, facing the ocean to the south. Newly established by two entrepreneurs, Dominic Scriven and Lawson Johnston, whose previous project was Mango Bay in Vietnam, the hotel nonetheless feels like it's been there for decades. Built in a stylish blend of Sri Lankan, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern traditions, it's a place where the design conscious traveller will feel immediately at home. Make this a destination for a tranquil holiday; the small scale of the place (there are just 12 one-bedroom villas, though 15 more are on the cards) dictates an informal, relaxed atmosphere. Spend your days taking in the natural beauty of the area on walks to explore the local floral and fauna, catch a tuk-tuk to the beach or venture further afield to the nearby city of Galle or even the wildlife reserve at Yala. As a base for exploring or a sanctuary for leaving the outside world behind, Malabar Hill works beautifully.
Design notes
The design of the hotel veers away from the Sri Lankan vernacular, drawing heavily on Moorish and Arabic traditions, which makes sense given the long history those communities have here. South-East Asian ideas also make appearances here and there, bearing witness to the owners' long association with Vietnam and Cambodia, but the overall feel is contemporary, airy and cool. Think sun-bleached wood, terracotta floors, light and breezy block-printed fabrics, and polished plaster walls.
Why stay here
This is a great destination for couples, who made up the majority of the guests when we visited. Families with younger children can rule it right out, as they're not permitted at Malabar Hill. It is possible to put extra beds in each room, so you could bring teenagers along, but the vibe is distinctly adult. Come for a relaxed time: lazy days spent by the pool, with evenings to enjoy drinks on the terrace and long, luxurious dinners. There's plenty to explore in the area (see below), so it makes a great base for exploring the south coast.
What’s around
The hotel itself is in a slightly isolated position a few miles from the coast, where the main tourist strip is, so don't expect to walk out of the door and right into shops and nightlife. That said, a short tuk-tuk ride will bring you to the towns of Weligama and Mirissa and the long strip of surfer beaches around them, where you'll find chilled out beach bars galore and plenty of waves to ride. Malabar Hill has a sister property on the beach at Mirissa, the low-key bar The Shack, where you can pitch up, bag a sunbed and throw yourself into the wild waves until you're worn out. If a more active encounter with the sea appeals, there are whale watching The hotel is also about an hour's drive from Galle, where a few hours spent meandering around the colonial churches and fortifications at Galle Fort is the perfect day trip. Drive about an hour in the other direction and you come to the spectacular beaches at Tangalle, and it's even possible to drive to the national park at Yala for a safari day and the chance to see leopards, elephants and bears.
Don’t miss
The hill on which the hotel perches is a haven for biodiversity, something the owners have been at pains to encourage. Walking and cycling itineraries around the grounds offer opportunities for bird-watching and getting to know the local flora. There is a resident naturalist on site, and a vegetable garden where aubergines, okra, beans, pineapples, lemons and chillis feed the kitchens.
Rooms and facilities
There are just twelve one-bedroom villas at Malabar Hill, accessed via a winding, up and down, pathway through the lush jungle garden. Each one is private and self-contained, looking out over the countryside beyond with the sea in the distance. Every villa has its own plunge pool and mini terrace, accessed via huge bi-fold doors. Floor cushions make up an informal seating area in the bedrooms, and a generous dressing area stretches down the length of the villa, with large walk in showers at one end.
Food and drink
All tastes are catered for at Malabar Hill with a broad international menu. It would seem odd to visit Sri Lanka without sampling its famous curries and hoppers, and you'll find excellent examples of these firmly on the menu for breakfast and dinner. If you get a bit curried out, there's plenty more to keep you happy, from burgers to banh mi, freshly caught fish to Middle Eastern mezze. An excellent cocktail bar and wine list complete the experience. You can book various packages for a stay at Malabar Hill, from bed and breakfast all the way up to all-inclusive.
Spa and wellness credentials
A full spa is in the process of being built at Malabar Hill, but until its arrival there are therapists on hand for soothing Balinese treatments. One of the highlights of the hotel is undoubtedly its spectacular 35m pool, built on a level above the surrounding forest, and overlooking the Indian Ocean at one end. You can also book private yoga and meditation sessions.
Family-friendly and accessibility
As noted above, Malabar Hill is not a destination for young kids. With its winding paths and steep hillside location, the site isn't fully wheelchair-accessible, but there are golf buggies and electric tuk-tuks on hand throughout the grounds to convey guests around, so those with some mobility issues will be catered for.
Booking essentials
Website: malabarhillsrilanka.com
Pricing: From £326
Address: A. Palalla, Borala Road, Weligama 81700, Sri Lanka
